Bedouins

The Bedouins or Bedu are the indigenous people of the desert. Since the beginning of history, Bedouins have mastered the art of living in the arid desert and learned to relish their nomadic lifestyle.

The Bedouins of Wadi Rum have settled in villages since the 1960s, but some families still live in Bedouin tents. Six Bedouin tribes live in Wadi Rum villages: The Zalabia tribe, whose members make up the majority of people living in Rum Village (the only village within the Wadi Rum Protected Area), the Zaweideh tribe in the villages of Disi on the northern edge of the Protected Area, the Sweilhieen, the Omran, the Gedman, and the Dbour tribes. 

Bedouins are renowned for their generosity. Bedouins are not wealthy people, but their tradition of hospitality obliges them to take care of their guests with all they have. 

The tents woven by Bedouin women from goat, sheep or camel wool are called “houses of hair” in Arabic. The tents can be dismantled to allow free movement in pursuit of grazing areas, and have flexible openings to adapt to the changes in wind direction. Although the majority of Wadi Rum Bedouins are now settled in villages within and near Wadi Rum Protected Area, they still maintain Houses of Hair or tents for seasonal usage and for tourism campsites.

Men. Bedouin men wear the Thoab (or Dishdasha), which is a dress-like attire. The Thoab is made of light material and is traditionally white; however, gray and dark blue are also worn by many Bedouins. A Serwal is worn under the Thoab.  The Serwal is white trousers that are tight at the ankle. On their heads, Bedouin men wear the Koufeyah, which is the famous traditional headdress of Arabs.

Women. Women wear the Madraga, a long black dress that Bedouin women have worn since time immemorial. The Madraga is usually embroidered on the chest and sleeves. Bedouin women must cover their heads and for that they were the Usaba, which is a hair band that is wrapped around the head and tied at the back.

Coffee drinking is an essential element of social Bedouin life. Bedouin men drink coffee in their meetings, in celebration, and in solace. When a guest arrives he is offered three cups, each enough for a mouthful.

• The Cup of the Guest (Arabic: Fonjan Al Thaif). This cup honors the arrival of the guest.
• The Cup of the Sword (Arabic: Fonjan Al Saif): This cup honors the bravery of Bedouin men.
• The Mood Cup (Arabic: Fonjan Al Kaif): This cup is a sign of good mood.

Bedouins say that their ancestors were too busy in the pastures or at home doing chores that they barely had time to eat, even once a day. Therefore, Bedouin food is usually hearty and satisfying. The staple Bedouin diet consists of yoghurt, cheese, butter, ghee, rice, and wheat. Bedouin food is simple and not diverse.

Mansaf. Mansaf is the Bedouins’ signature meal and Jordan’s national dish. Mansaf is made of goat or sheep meat cooked in a broth of fermented dried yogurt (Jameed). Mansaf is served in large platters with a layer of Bedouin bread (Shrak) at the bottom, rice, Jameed, and on the top, large pieces of meat.

Al Rashouf. This is made by boiling grains and yogurt together. The mixture is poured in bowls and the meal is eaten with pieces of bread and local ghee on the top.

Lazageyeh. This consists of thin layers of dough eaten with sugar and ghee

After the hard work of the day, Bedouin men meet in one of the tents, usually the Sheikh’s. They drink coffee, narrate stories, recite poetry, and listen to the music of the one-stringed Rababah. Bedouins have an ancient kinship with poetry. It is common to encounter Bedouin men and women who have memorized poems running into several hundred lines. Bedouin poetry covers themes of heroism, love, nature, wisdom and humor. 

In the past, Bedouins used to seek treatment for ailments from Hakeems, who were highly-regarded individuals in the community. Hakeems learned the healing properties of local plants and herbs. Many of these herbal remedies were handed down the generations and are still common today. Popular one are:

• Acadia (Gaisoom).  A medicinal plant used in relieving stomach colds.
• Sage (Marameyeh). Boiled and drank as tea, this wild plant is used in easing stomachaches.
• Chamomile (Babounej). Boiled and drank as tea, this wild plant is used for lung problems and influenza.

The Bedouins of Wadi Rum are at the heart of local tourism services. They provide tours, guides and facilities, including campsites. They also run restaurants and small shops in the villages that provide meals and basic supplies to visitors. Their guide services include highly experienced mountain and trekking guides who have an unmatched knowledge of the local area and speak several languages fluently.

 

To learn more about Wadi Rum Bedouins, read This is the Life, by Laura M. Strachan. She has compiled an archive of the historical life ways of Wadi Rum’s Bedouin Tribes.